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Cactus and Succulents from Seed
by Philippe Faucon (2001)
These sahuaro seedlings
are 4 weeks old, 5 mm wide |
Seeds are an inexpensive way to add specimens to your collection.
Seeds are readily available from mail order catalogs, internet or other
sources like clubs or friends. You might also want to try using your
own seeds.
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In general cactus seeds grow well just sown at the surface of regular
cactus potting mix. A little of silica sand spread over the seeds
will protect them. As a rule of thumb, the thickness of the sand
should be the same as the diameter of the seeds. If the seeds are
small, a salt shaker is a good way to spread them regularly. In any case
seeds planted too thickly encourages disease and die-offs.
Do not forget to label your containers! |
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Agave parryi huachucensis, 4 weeks old |
The young seelings must be protected from drying. They can be
sowed in a container that closes. The pot in which they are can be
covered with a piece of glass pane. Or, if you have a large quantity
they can be grown in a poly "tent", like the picture on the right
(picture by James
Pickering). The poly tent is open during the day. In any
case the surface of the mix should never dry up. The containers
should be misted once or twice a day until the seeds have
germinated. Seeds need heat to germinate, and a temperature of 70 to
80°F (20-25°C) is good for most of them.
Although most succulents germinate in 2 weeks or less, some species can
take several months to germinate, so you might have to be patient. |
Clean culture is important to avoid damping off. Although
fungicides can sometimes be used, using sterilized soil and cleaning all
the equipment carefully before using it will go a long way in avoiding
problems
The seedlings need bright light and sufficient temperature. Bach's
nursery keep a minimum temperature of 50°F (10°C) at night, and the day
temperature is probably between 70 and 80°F (20-25°C).
Remember that even if seedlings like the Pachypodiums on the right seem
robust, they generally have a fragile, shallow root system, and should
never have a chance to dry. |
Pachypodium saundersii, 6 weeks old |
Hoodia macracantha, 8 weeks old |
Without letting them dry, they should be "hardened off" as soon as the
true leaves are appearing. This means opening slightly the container
in which you are growing them, or opening the poly "tent" during the day,
as the picture shows. If the seedlings turn brownish, it might mean
that they don't have enough humidity. On the other hand, keeping the
air too humid encourages algae and fungi.
The seedlings can be fertilized with liquid fertilizer as soon as they
have their first real leaves (or stem for cactus). |
They can be moved when they are too crowded, or when they are large
enough to handle. Overcrowding promotes rot, so don't wait too
much.
Moving them after a little watering has softened the soil, is generally
easier and creates less damage. |
Pachycereus pectiniferus, 4 weeks old |
Aloe broomii, 6 weeks old |
Tweezers can be used to move your young plants. A simple tool
made of a wooden label with a notch cut on an edge can also be very
useful.
(The picture on the right is Castellanosia caineana, 4 weeks
old) |
Krainzia breviflora, 1 year old, already
blooming |
Cephalocereus senilis, 9 months old, 1 inch
tall (2.5 cm) |
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